Cold Weather Skincare Chapter: Have you tried this?

This time of year, I start hearing the same concerns in the treatment room: tight, reactive, dehydrated skin, with many clients noticing their fine lines appear more visible.

I know it's easy to assume the skin has suddenly “become dry,” so people reach for heavier and heavier creams. But before you do that, it’s worth understanding what’s really happening to the skin in the winter chapter. In my own experience with dehydrated skin, there’s one ingredient that consistently helps lock in moisture, improve skin comfort, and leave the skin feeling noticeably more plump and hydrated.

Enter hyaluronic acid.

Summary

But, it's important to note, not all hyaluronic acid formulations are the same. Hyaluronic acid formulas can vary greatly in terms of molecular weight (large, small, or multi-weight), concentration (more isn’t always better), supporting ingredients (soothing vs irritating), and the base of the formula (water-heavy, alcohol-heavy, or barrier-supportive).

In my opinion and personal journey with this ingredient, a well-formulated product will often combine multiple weights of hyaluronic acid and pair them with skin-supporting ingredients in your moisturiser like ceramides or humectants such as glycerin. This creates an effective hydration system that doesn’t overwhelm the skin.

On the other hand, poorly formulated products may rely too heavily on low molecular weight hyaluronic acid in high concentrations. These can provide an instant plumping effect (Think influencers "Look my skin so shiny", it must be good), BUT may lead to tightness or irritation, especially on sensitive or winter-stressed skin or just not be effective at all. If in doubt, always patch-test new products where possible and use only the amount recommended by manufacturer.

Personally, I’m a big fan of Dermalogica’s Circular Hydration Serum. I apply it to slightly damp skin after cleansing and before moisturiser. This helps my skin take in the hydration and lock it in properly with my moisturiser. It has to be part of a consistent routine, otherwise it will not work. It’s a key part of my daily AM routine I cleanse, apply the hyaluronic acid serum to damp skin, and then seal everything in with a moisturiser to keep my skin hydrated all day long. And, most important of all, ensure you layer over your moisturiser with an SPF, if your moisturiser does not include that already!

What is Hyaluronic acid?

Hyaluronic acid is an ingredient that can help stressed and dehydrated skin adjust to the cold, indoor heating and stress our skin goes through in winter. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a humectant, known for its ability to attract moisture and keep the skin hydrated. HA is naturally present in the body, annoyingly its levels decrease with age (Yes like everything thing else urgh) and this is why you may see your skin appearing more dehydrated with age. For my own skin, I use HA topically as this drastically helps reduce the appearance of my own fine lines, while also improving my skin overall barrier over the colder months.

Before adding hyaluronic acid to your routine, it’s important to remember that, like any skincare ingredient, it’s not suitable for everyone. The science bit, HA comes in different molecular weights, each with its own ability to penetrate the skin. If you experience itching, redness, or a warming sensation after applying it, this could be a sign that the product isn’t right for you, or that your skin is too sensitive or compromised. Always patch-test before committing to a full application.

You’ll find hyaluronic acid in various products, from cleansers and toners to serums and moisturisers. Personally, I use it as my daily serum because it’s more concentrated. I then follow up with a nourishing ceramide-rich moisturiser to seal everything in.

Circular Hydration from Dermalogica It such a simple product but a stable of my everyday routine.

Serums tend to be more concentrated in an ingredient, which is why I choose it as a serum.

The content shared on this website reflects the author’s personal views and professional experience and is provided for informational purposes only. Any products, ingredients, or treatments mentioned are discussed based on individual experience and are not guaranteed to be suitable for everyone.

No claims are made regarding results or outcomes, and any reliance on the information provided is done at the reader’s own discretion. This content should not be considered dermatological, medical, or professional advice.

If you have a skin concern, medical condition, or are unsure whether a product or treatment is appropriate for you, advice from a qualified professional should always be sought.